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Episode 227 - The Margarita: A Sweet Technology - foodingnews.it - All about the world of cooking!
In 1875 - at the height of the Phylloxera crisis, Cointreau created its iconic brand of Triple Sec, using a method we can only assume was very similar to the one pioneered by Combier. Until the introduction of Maison Ferrandâs Dry Curacao in 2011 (which was actually developed in partnership with Dave Wondrich), Cointreau was pretty much the gold standard for what a clear orange liqueur is and should be. So if you encounter - at any point - a cocktail recipe that calls for Triple Sec, go ahead and assume that Cointreau is going to be an exemplary representative of the category.A Felicitous Partnership5 years after the launch of Cointreau in 1875, a new player entered the picture and its name was Grand Marnier, a mashup comprised of the surname of the family responsible for inventing it and a timeless suggestion from a helpful friend. The family were the Marnier-Lapostolles, who ran a distilling operation in a town called Neauphle-le-ChĂąteau just west of Paris, and the friend was CĂ©sar Ritz, the Swiss Hotelier responsible for creating what we now know as the Ritz-Carlton hotel chain.After tinkering with a large stock of Cognac acquired by his father-in-law, EugĂšne Lapostolle, Louis-Alexandre Marnier-Lapostolle decided that it would benefit from the addition of a rare orange extract from the Caribbean (in all likelihood, the very same flavorant used in Orange Curacao). Some fine old Cognac, some orange extract, and a little bit of sugar to marry it all togetherâŠet voila! A star is born. But to be a star, you need to do more than walk the walk. You need to talk the talk, and you need to dress the part.In 1880, âLa Belle Epoqueâ was really kicking into high gear in Paris, ushering in a cultural golden age that featured a ton of fashionable trends and innovations. One linguistic fad was to call everything âpetite,â which literally means âsmall,â but is often informally taken to mean âcuteâ or âcharming.â So you didnât just have a dog, you owned a âpetit chien,â and you didnât just read the daily newspaper, you read either, Le Petit Journal, or Le Petit Parisien. Those were the actual, official names of the publications, not just nicknames.From Petite to Grand MarnierSo amidst all this cutesy petite-ness, one day, Louis-Alexandre Marnier-Lapostolle poured a dram of his orange-infused, sweetened Cognac concoction for his good friend, CĂ©sar Ritz, and the latter decided that it would be smart to buck convention, to go against the grain, and call this delicious nectar, âGrand Marnier,â a name that was loud and proud, big and bold, in a world where many seemed ready to kick back against the stifling âpetitenessâ of the bourgeoisie. So now weâve got a spirit that talks the talk AND walks the walkâŠbut how would it dress the part? Well, thatâs where the tradition of the Cognac region comes in. If you look at a bottle of Grand Marnier, youâll notice that it resembles the traditional alembic (or âCharentaisâ) still design used by French brandy distillers. This, of course, is no coincidence. The bottle was designed to look strikingly different - to stand out from the herd - and the whole ensemble is adorned with a red ribbon (or âcordon rougeâ) affixed to the bottle with a wax stamp. For this reason, the term âcordon rougeâ very quickly became synonymous with Grand Marnierâs signature product.But it wasnât just Grand Marnier who benefitted from its relationship with CĂ©sar Ritz. The hotel magnate famously partnered with Georges Auguste Escoffier, one of the most famous and influential French chefs of all time. The liqueur was very quickly adopted by their respective food and beverage programs, also featuring in one of Escoffierâs most iconic recipes: CrĂȘpes Suzette. This immediate exposure to the wealthiest palates across the continent catapultedâŠto talk about.Orange Liqueur, In SummaryTaken as a group, the trio of Orange Curacao, Triple Sec, and Grand Marnier are the three orange liqueurs that best define the category of âorange-sweetened soursâ that eventually evolved into the Margarita. Curacao focuses on the intensity and uniqueness of the bitter orange flavor, Triple Sec operates by trying to convey all the orange flavor of Curacao, but without nearly as much sugar, and Grand Marnier is predicated on the notion that extravagance and boldness can bring any beverage experience to the next level. Orange liqueurs in general, and bottles like Cointreau and Grand Marnier in particular, were a huge part of beverage culture in continental Europe and beyond by the early 20th century, when Americans began quaffing âsunrise tequilasâ at Mexican resorts, as we mentioned at the conclusion of Part I. But while all this experimentation with ânew-styleâ and âold-styleâ daisies was happening in the new world, a new conflict was about to break out in Europe. I mean, yeah, there was some little squabble about an archduke assassination that got a few people bent out of shape, but the conflict Iâm referring to is one that would push bartende
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